Such a beautiful, sunny Sunday afternoon. It would be a shame not to use it for some exercise. So after a delicious slice of poppy seed raspberry tart and a cup of coffee, I set off to the Wachau, this time to make my mark on the fourth stage of the World Heritage Trail.
I had actually planned this stage for autumn, when the grapes are already ripe and the forests are in their colourful costumes, but a few pictures of the green Wachau in social media have awakened my interest and motivation to experience the magnificent cultural landscape of the Wachau in summer too.
Tausendeimerberg#
Today’s 11 km tour through the Spitzer Graben begins at the market square in Spitz an der Donau, which largely coincides with the Spitzer Graben panoramic tour.
The village fountain with the church in the background forms a picturesque ensemble. Last autumn, the church tower was still covered in scaffolding, but now the renovated tower roof shines beautifully in the summer sun. Amazing. The mosaic of colourful roof tiles forms a blooming flower meadow. Very well done.
Passing Spitz-Niederhaus Castle, I follow the cobbled Friedhofgasse to the start of the path to the Tausendeimerberg. I took this route once before this spring, when I walked the first stage of the Jauerling circuit during the apricot blossom season. You would think that I would already know my way around, but I still follow the wrong path. But only a few metres and I realise my mistake.
A steep, narrow path leads up to the mountain, where a few benches and a small hut await. A few people are already on top. They have all come here to enjoy the beautiful view of Spitz and the Danube. I then walk briskly back down the Tausendeimerberg to the cemetery.
Heuriger Donabaum#
After the cemetery, I reach the small village of Radlbach, from where my tour into the vineyards of the Spitzer Graben begins. After a short climb, I pass the Setzberghütte and walk back down through vineyards into the Spitzer Graben.
There I am greeted by freshly chilled wine from the Donabaum wine tavern and the stamp box. A bench is also situated in the vineyard. Perfect for a small, romantic wine picnic. All you have to do is take a bottle or glass of wine from the fridge and put the money in the money box. A great thing.
I take a few sips from the bottle I’ve brought with me - not wine, but water - and set off again. There is a longer climb ahead to the Offenberg and then the Zornberg vineyards.
Green lizard#
What’s that rustling in the grass and bushes? With every step I take, it immediately scurries through the undergrowth. Quietly, without making a move, I stand rooted to the spot. Only my eyes are focussed on looking for the cause, jumping from bush to bush. And lo and behold, I see them: little dragons, in green, the European Green Lizard.
They feel particularly at home on the sunny southern slopes of the Wachau. There they can hide and sunbathe well between vineyard walls and bushes. They can grow up to 40 cm long, almost half of which is taken up by their tail, and can also shed their tail to confuse attackers and flee quickly.
The little animals also served as inspiration for the quality designation of Wachau wines. Extremely dry and complex wines with an alcohol content of more than 12.5% are categorised as Smaragd by the local winegrowers.
Zornberg hut#
I finally reach the forest. Some shade and coolness do me good. The heat has already taken its toll on me. Every step is difficult, even though I haven’t gone very far yet. Unfortunately, the forest ends quickly and I’m back on the edge of the vineyards. The view of the Spitzer Graben is marvellous. The vine leaves are a lush green colour.
Well, where is the road? Where do I go next? The signpost is battered and no longer indicates the right direction. The sign is lying on the ground. I wander up and down the vineyard looking for the continuation. There, now I’ve found it. Hidden behind a rock, through the bushes, at the edge of the forest.
I take another short break at the Zornberg hut to enjoy the view. Wonderful. The hut is very busy today. It opens at weekends in the summer season and stocks local wines from the local vineyards.
From now on, the path runs increasingly in the shade of the forest. The landscape changes. The vines give way to pines and ash trees. The eastern slope towards Mühldorf does not offer enough sun for winegrowing. There is already the Jauerling, the ascent of which follows after this stage. Still very idyllic in the forest. The branches sway in the wind.
Mühldorf#
I am reaching Mühldorf. But the end of the stage, Marktstraße in Mühldorf, is still a long way off. A small diversions to the districts of Niederranna and then to Oberranna Castle is planned. It is a final short climb. Shortly before Oberranna Castle, the path turns off past a paddock where two horses are grazing. But now I return to the centre of Mühldorf via the Burgsteig, which sounds wilder than it is, and end the hike for today.
I then whizz back to Spitz on the Nextbike. Quite practical when it’s only downhill.
Update#
In early autumn of the same year, I walked the route again and then climbed the Jauerling. Although the grapes had almost been harvested, I was still able to find a few forgotten ones. The blackthorn was also bearing blue fruit and this time I saw Oberranna Castle from a distance, which I had strangely overlooked on my first visit. A few impressions.
