I continue my hiking tour with the second stage of the World Heritage Trail. However, I extend it a little and walk a circular route, which is why I first have to walk from Weißenkirchen to Dürnstein. The route is flat and runs alongside the Danube, where a few boats sail leisurely along. The weather is still warm, but this changes as I reach Dürnstein. Clouds cover the sun, cool the valley and dark rain clouds gather at times.
King Lionheart in Dürnstein#
In Dürnstein, one of the smallest towns in Austria, I stroll through the pretty old town centre to the Kremser Tor gate. From there, a turn-off leads up to the famous Dürnstein ruin. It is said that King Lionheart was imprisoned in these ruin, still a mighty castle at the time, after he was arrested in Austria on his way back to England. According to the legend, the Bard Blondel found Lionheart and helped him escape. Blondel travelled from castle to castle in Austria and played the king’s favourite songs, which only he knew. Only at Dürnstein did someone join in and Blondel knew that this was his king.
The path up to the castle consists of a long staircase with uneven rocky steps washed out by the rain. I try to keep a steady pace and not overexert myself, as I still have a long way to go. I pass the ruin without visiting them. The weather is not ideal today and I already saw it last year. But if you don’t know it, you should definitely make a short detour.
From Starhembergwarte to Kanzel#
At the top of the hill, I reach the Starhembergwarte. This tower was built in the late 19th century for tourism. It is named after the former owner of the forest and you can pick up the keys to the tower in a nearby hut, where you can also get a stamp for your passport, a drink and food.
From the Starhembergwarte I can walk comfortably again. The path runs only slightly downhill and uphill at short intervals. I stop at the Dürnsteiner Kanzel, take a short break and eat the provisions I have brought with me. Unfortunately, two hikers have already occupied the spot and are enjoying the beautiful view over the Danube valley. It is probably even more breathtaking in autumn, when most of the leaves turn brown and yellow. The overcast sky also spoils the scenery.
As the tour progresses, the path changes from a narrow trail to a wide forest road. Easy to walk, but a little boring because the trees obscure any view of the valley, still a good way to take a step back and relax. A quiet little stretch.
Schildhütten and then to Weißenkirchen#
I only emerge from the forest in Schildhütten, a small village with a few winegrowers’ houses and a wine tavern, and immediately set off on a varied and exciting trail through the vineyards. This is definitely my favourite section of this stage. I overlook the Danube and can see as far as Weißenkirchen and its castle church. I walk briskly downhill. In the end I then return to my car in the car park at the train station via the narrow, picturesque streets of Weißenkirchen.