I thought I’d save the section of the Welterbsteig with the most forest kilometres for autumn. And it really does contain a lot of forest, mainly mixed forest of beech, spruce, ash and a few pines. However, there are also a few architectural highlights and an unexpected surprise.
Airy to the Luftberg#
I start in Aggsbach Dorf, where the route immediately climbs steeply to reach Aggstein via a chain of hills. I deviate slightly from the World Heritage route and follow the Dunkelsteinerwald-Runde (DUR), another long-distance hiking trail that leads through the Dunkelsteiner Wald forest. Both hiking trails practically overlap on this route to Maria Langegg, so I also walk the fourth stage of the DUR.
The only difference is, as I said, the small diversions to the Luftberg. I can’t quite understand why this beautiful viewpoint was skipped for the World Heritage Trail, as the Luftberg above Aggsbach offers a wonderful view of the Danube valley and the Aggstein ruin, where my next waypoint is located.
From Luftberg I continue over the ridge and then down a holloway to Aggstein, where I meet the World Heritage Trail again. The path is very varied and littered with foliage this time of the year. So you have to be careful where you step to not slip or something even worse happens, like what happened to me. More about my mishap a little later.
To the Christmas market at the Aggstein ruin#
Once at the bottom, there is a long and steep climb up the historic Eselsteig (donkey path) to the ruin. Surprisingly, I came across a lot of hikers on the way to the ruins and I had a bad feeling. Is this weekend the Christmas market at the Aggstein ruins? The ruins are a popular excursion destination all year round, but such a crowd would be unusual without a Christmas market.
After the long and sweaty climb, I reach the ruins and the ticket office for the Christmas market. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to visit it or the ruins because I was too lightly dressed and didn’t have much money with me. Note to self: next time take some warm clothes and a bit of cash.
Luckily, the ticket office staff let me pass at the entrance and directed me onto the hiking trail. Otherwise it really would have been like highway robbery in the Middle Ages. Back then, the castle was notorious for its robber barons, who lived in the castle and demanded tolls from passing merchants, otherwise the knights would rob them. But they couldn’t have robbed much from me today.
Pilgrimage in Maria Langegg#
I can therefore continue my hike without any problems. But there is no loneliness on the stretch to Maria Langegg from then on. After all, many hikers take advantage of the Christmas market to visit the ruin and walk from Maria Langegg to it. The hiking trail is very well developed and only goes slightly uphill or, for me, downhill. It is quite a leisurely walk.
There are also a few beautiful views of Maria Langegg with its pilgrimage church, which you can also visit with a short deviation from the World Heritage Trail. You only have to go into the village to the church when you come out of Maria Langegg.
After Maria Langegg, it becomes more lonely. No other hikers cross my path. A stark contrast to before. It is pleasant to enjoy the silence, only a few times the wind rustles the leaves and once the church bells of Maria Langegg echo over the forest hills. Simply a wonderful, sunny autumn day without much wind.
Climbing on the Hoher Stein#
Lots of forest and forest roads characterise this section until I reach the turn-off to the Hoher Stein. A steep trail leads up to this rock formation, which offers a wonderful view across the Danube valley to Spitz. The path is covered in numerous leaves, which I sink into when I step on them. Good cushioning. At the top, a climber greets me and asks me for a lighter. I unfortunately have to deny his request.
The cliffs at Hoher Stein are a popular climbing crag with their many 10 metre high, vertical rock faces. There is also an easy, short via ferrata leading up to the highest rock. After two ladders and a secured climbing passage, you stand on the Hoher Stein.
Mishaps on the return#
I take a break, but because I cool down quickly, I continue swiftly to Hofarnsdorf, my destination. Running down the steep path is not a good idea. I slip on the leaves and immediately land on my bum. Fortunately, nothing else happens to me. My first mishap of the day, another will follow soon.
A little later, I take a wrong turn and soon find myself in the forest thicket. Instead of admitting my mistake, I stubbornly carry on and try to walk cross country to reach the World Heritage trail again. In doing so, however, I step into a deep muddy hole when crossing the dried up bed of the Buchentalbach stream. My second mishap. From then on, mud adorns my shoe up to the ankle.
Relieved, however, I get back on the right path. I walk the final section downhill to avoid twisting my ankle as I can hardly see the ground for all the leaves. In Hofarnsdorf, the vineyards greet me with their already dark yellow and brown leaves. From Melk to the village of Arnsdorf, there are hardly any other vineyards on the south side of the Danube. I end my hike in front of Hofarnsdorf Castle and the church next to it.
But this is not the end of my tour, I still have to return to Aggsbach Dorf. This time I have a new plan. Nextbike offers rent bikes at many locations in the Wachau. So I rent a bike, the app works without a hitch, and I leisurely cycle back to Aggsbach Dorf towards the sun, which makes the Danube sparkle. There I wash the mud off my shoes in the Aggsbach before setting off on my journey home. A really worthwhile hike due to the weather and the season.
Update Aggstein ruin#
On 11 May 2024, I was able to catch up on my visit to the Aggstein ruin, which I skipped on this article’s hike due to the Christmas market. This time, the surroundings are resplendent in green splendour. A visit to the ruin is highly recommended due to its size and the panoramic views.