The low sun slowly warms the surrounding air. Only a few clouds obscure its rays at irregular intervals. I soak up the warmth again; in late autumn it is already really fresh before I set off from the medieval High Market in front of Gozzoburg Castle. The Gozzoburg is a Gothic palais that was commissioned by the city judge of Krems, Gozzo von Krems, in the 13th century.
Kremser Kreuzberg#
But I still have to wait a little while until the pupils on the square return to school. A fire or just a drill? At least the fire brigade is there to monitor what’s happening. The end of the hustle and bustle is my starting signal.
I walk slightly uphill to the Piaristenkirche, the oldest church in Krems, where I enjoy a panoramic view over the town of Krems and far into the Tullnerfeld. Then steeply downhill and out of the old town. After a short flat section, I climb a long flight of steps up to the Kreuzberg. I run the first few steps, but soon realise that there is no point. It’s too steep and too long. So I walk most of it, panting.
At the end of the steps, I don’t really know where to go: either continue along the World Heritage Trail, which starts going downhill again, or continue up the Kreuzberg, a detour with more panting, but certainly more views and a short section of forest with a trail at the end to run down swiftly. After a short breather, I decide to take the diversions via the vineyards high above Krems. It pays off.
First I pass the Wachtberg viewpoint and then the cross at Kremser Kreuzberg. I follow the Kreuzberg road through the vineyards. Wonderful. Finally, I run a brisk trail downhill through the forest.
Break in Stein#
At Kögel, I rejoin the World Heritage Trail and return to the urban area between Krems and Stein. The city trail is quite varied here. I walk over a tunnel portal of the Wachau railway. If a train were running now, I would be able to watch it disappear into the tunnel, but at this time of year it’s already overhaul time and the trains are no longer running.
Then along a beautiful lane in the old town of Stein, past the Rebentor. Here I treat myself to a short break and buy a Spritzer (wine mixed with water) from the self-service machine in the garden of a wine tavern. The stamp is also available here. The Frauenberg church is also just a few steps away. You pass it on the last stage of the World Heritage Trail.
Vineyards#
At the end of the road, I reach a tunnel exit. For the train passengers, however, the daylight is only a brief pleasure, because immediately afterwards the tunnel goes dark again. Via short steps, I reach the ruin Stein and the vineyards behind it. From then on, I am outside the urban space. Goodbye city air, welcome country air. Unfortunately, this hardly changes the road conditions, as I continue to run on tarmac paths. In fact, the first stage contains hardly any gravel paths or trails. You can easily walk it without hiking boots.
Many of the vines have already lost their leaves and the autumnal play of colours is therefore no longer as impressive. I meet a number of winegrowers who are preparing their vineyards for the winter. It’s been a while since the grape harvest. Apart from that, I am completely alone this time. Not another hiker far and wide in sight. In late autumn, the Wachau is quiet, without many tourists.
The path hugs the border between the forest and vineyards like a ribbon. It climbs and descends gently again and again. But there are hardly any long climbs. It is an easy introductory stage that offers wonderful views over the vineyards and the Danube. Göttweig Abbey is also clearly visible on the hills in the distance.
Town of Dürnstein#
Past the monument to the French, which commemorates a battle in the Third Coalition War on these fields, and a final long climb before the blue church tower of the Dürnstein Abbey Church finally appears and the world-famous ruin can be seen high above Dürnstein. This ascent and then descent to Dürnstein is the only longer gravel section. I would have liked a bit more, but at least my shoes don’t get dirty.
You can also visit a climbing crag before Dürnstein. There are plenty of climbing opportunities in the Wachau due to the striking rock formations. But before you reach the end of the stage, you can decide whether to continue directly to the castle, which is part of the second stage anyway, but is not that far now, or to visit the town of Dürnstein first. My hike finally ends at the beautiful town gate.
A pleasant stage to start the World Heritage Trail. Not too difficult and not too long. In summer, however, you should make sure you have sufficient sun protection and water supplies. The route offers hardly any shade.
But wait, there’s a bonus for those who still have strength and energy, for whom this stage wasn’t enough. The icing on the cake is the Vogelbergsteig.