It rained and stormed extensively the previous weekend. The rivers and streams, including the wide Danube, swelled and flooded the surrounding countryside. I’m a little unsure whether a hike just a week later is a good idea. The path could be muddy and impassable. However, the sun has already returned for a few days and with it warm and dry weather. So on this Sunday morning, I set off for the Wachau.
My point of interest is the Jauerling. I really want to climb it once more before the temperatures drop again. There’s not much time left. Winter is approaching and at almost 1000 metres it will soon be chilly. But today the forecast is almost 25 °C. So it’s perfect for a mountain tour like this.
Trenning#
The ascent to the Jauerling begins in tranquil Mühldorf. I only walked this ascent in the spring of this year. Up to the Naturpark inn, the route overlaps with the fifth stage of the World Heritage Trail. So I already know my way around a bit: I cross a short bridge, the rushing Spitzerbach still carries a lot of water, and I’m already on the steep climb through the forest.
The first hairpin bends are mastered without any problems, but the closer I get to the summit of the Trenning, the more fallen trees get in my way. At one point I even lose the track as I circumvent a fallen tree. The last cold front has left a lot of damage in the Jauerling region. I also have to go round, climb over or crawl under numerous fallen trees on the descent.
Towards the top, near the summit, the forest thins out and I can soon recognise the cross on the Trenning. The first hill is done. After a short, brisk descent to Thurn, the much longer ascent to the Jauerling follows. At least the path is easier to find, as it mainly follows forest roads and fallen trees are no obstacle.
Break at Naturpark-Gasthaus#
Although it’s quite fresh, I’m sweating a lot. My T-shirt is completely soaked when I reach the top of the Naturpark-Gasthaus Jauerling. However, it’s too cool for me in the shade of the forest. I prefer the sun. Fortunately, there’s no wind today, so I don’t freeze in my wet clothes.
A sunbed. Ideal for a short break and to dry myself and my clothes a little. Unluckily, I didn’t take a spare shirt with me. A few visitors to the hut are already waiting for their lunch. I make do with the provisions I’ve brought with me: two bananas and a Manner wafer. This time it’s not as busy as in Summer. No wonder with the cooler temperatures. But the view across the Spitzergraben to Spitz and the Danube is fantastic. Strengthened and sunned, I continue my walk.
Downhill to the Donau#
First a bit up and down until I reach a bench. From there, it’s all downhill along forest roads and a short stretch on tarmac near the hamlet of Benking. This is the only longer tarmac section of this stage. The southern slopes are lined with Christmas tree plantations and rough pastures. The barren soil of the Jauerling does not allow for much more.
After the last section of road, the path changes to a track. This is where the most beautiful section of this hike begins. A moderately sloping path through a slightly autumnal mixed forest with spruces, pines, beeches and oaks allows for brisk walking and beautiful views. The azure blue of the Danube flashes through the sea of leaves in the forest. On the opposite bank of the river, I recognise Arnsdorf with its numerous vineyards. The leaves on the vines are still green, but here in the forest the trees have already shed a few of theirs. Presumably also due to the strong wind, which snatched them away early.
Village fair in Spitz#
The path only becomes steeper towards the end of the descent to the Hinterhaus ruin and Spitz. Attention. I need to take care on the leafy path. Walking is too dangerous. The path is also littered with fallen trees. I slow down my pace, partly too because a few hikers cross my path. This is also the end of the Jauerling loop. The following path to Spitz is the same as on the first stage.
It takes me past the Hinterhaus ruins, which I don’t visit this time. There are plenty of pictures in the post about the first stage. Nevertheless, I take a few photos. The vines are still in their full leafy splendour, whereas in spring they were still bare and woody. The sun is reflected splendidly by the Danube. A sunset on the ruins would be romantic.
Now it’s not far to Spitz, where a fair is taking place today. The market square is bustling with people visiting the numerous stalls. I didn’t expect the fair. Bad research again. After all, the church in Spitz is dedicated to St Maurice, who is being commemorated on this very Sunday. According to his hagiography, he was a Roman officer, presumably of Nubian origin, who refused to murder his Christian brothers and sisters on the orders of the Roman emperor Maximian. He himself paid for his refusal with his life.
Tour recommendation#
This stage can easily be combined with the fourth stage of the World Heritage Trail as a roundtrip. However, there are around 25 km and over 1000 m of ascent to overcome. In other words, a strenuous but beautiful and varied hiking route. But even just the 7th stage of the Jauerling circuit is worth a hike.