I start early, just like last week on my hike in Lunz, this time at 5am. Once again, the weather forecast predicts a hot day. The early bird catches the worm or, in my case, climbs the Hochschwab (2277m). I set this mountain as my goal, a little higher than the Dürrenstein, and I want to approach it via the Aflenzer Staritzen, the long high plateau of the Hochschwab mountain range. The way back is via the Dullwitz.
Gamssteig#
The ascent begins directly from my starting point, the car park at Seebergsattel. First through a short section of forest, the Seebergwald, and then over lush mountain meadows onto the Gamssteig, which becomes a little rocky towards the end. In the forest, I have to cross two fallen trees. The direct route to the Seeleiten is certainly also an attractive alternative.
The fresh, cold dew that sticks to the flowers and grasses cools my ankles and legs. Towards the end of the meadow section, I also cross my first spring, the Bruchtalquelle. My water supply is still full, which is why I only refill one bottle after I have drunk about half of the bottle at the spring.
This is where the steep section of the Gamssteig begins. I have to carefully cross a rubble field that marks the way up. But my rapid gain in altitude allows me to enjoy an amazing view over the Seegraben during breaks. A bit of morning mist still hides the surrounding valleys, but up here the sun is already shining brightly. Blue sky.
Aflenzer Starizen#
Finally up on the high plateau at around 1800 metres - I treat myself to a short break and let my gaze wander over the Aflenzer Staritzen. I now only have to walk slightly up and down to the Hochschwab. A gentle breeze dries the last drops of sweat on my face. The plateau is high alpine, so the flora is limited to grass and flowers between long-lasting snow and stone.
Only a few animals can survive in a landscape like this. I spot a few chamois from afar and an ibex even crosses my path right in front of me. However, it disappears down a rock face before I can get my camera out to take a picture. The following picture shows another ibex sitting on a rock.
On the way across the plateau, I notice even more ibex relaxing comfortably on the large snowfields. I also frequently come across marmots. They quickly disappear into their holes and are difficult to spot. Their alarm call, however, is unmistakable, its sound spreading far and wide. My path crosses a colony with their distinctive hole dwellings and I notice a marmot in the grass as I walk to a small water source on the plateau.
I fill up with water there before the ascent towards Schiestlhaus (2156 m). It refreshes me and cools my chest like an ice pack. Pleasant. Perfect for today. I soon cross a snow field. Just don’t slip. But luckily this tricky section is not very long.
Schiestlhaus#
The path is otherwise passable without much difficulty, but I also caught a clear day. The plateau and the Hochschwab are often covered in clouds, which can make orientation and navigation extremely difficult. There are not many points to orientate yourself, only stones.
And when the temperatures on the plateau drop, it can become really dangerous. In 1988, several hikers died because mountain rescuers were unable to find them for days in the fog, although, once it cleared up, they were eventually found not far from the warm, sheltering hut.
The Schiestlhaus was rebuilt as a passive house in the 2000s after the previous hut had become outdated. As a passive house, it generates its own energy from a photovoltaic system installed on the roof. This enables a self-sufficient energy supply. However, helicopters, porters and well-meaning hikers, still have to carry up the food, drinks and other neccesities up to the hut. There are no other transport routes. The hut is too remote for that.
Hochschwab#
It’s not far from the Schiestlhaus to the Hochschwab and I’m soon standing in front of the summit cross. Countless mountain hikers are already resting around the large cross. From there I can even see the Dürrenstein to the north, which I climbed a week ago. Two paragliders are preparing their flight into the valley from the summit. The weather today is ideal for their endeavour. A controlled breeze creates momentum and the wind carries the gliders higher and higher after their take-off.
Dullwitz#
For the descent, I choose the path through the Dullwitz to Seetal. During the last ice age, this valley was covered by a massive glacier. It also left its mark on the geology of the valley and shaped it. The path is littered with rubble and stones, making progress difficult at times. The Voisthalerhütte (1654 m) is located roughly at the centre of the Dullwitz. This hut was also recently rebuilt after the old one burnt down.
The trees return around the Voisthalerhütte. I cross paths with several hiking groups that are on the ascent. A two-day tour with an overnight stay in one of the two huts is the more pleasant and less demanding option. You can also enjoy the sunrise on the Hochschwab. The path through the forest is only moderately steep and towards the end I can even walk the last few kilometres to Seewiesen on a nice flat gravel road. In Seewiesen, I only have to climb a short forest slope to my car. Done.
