A romantic tower appears through the cool mist. Its steps are covered in ice, its stone tower walls covered in snow. Mrs Holle could be up here in the tower’s chamber. For days, she has ordered Goldmarie to shake and shake her warm down duvets. The escaped down then gently fall down as snowflakes and cover the land under a white blanket.
On the morning of the last day of my trip to Bad Leonfelden, the weather has improved. The wind has died down, but the fog still dominates the landscape, especially the surrounding hills seem to have disappeared in the mist. Nevertheless, I still really want to get up to the Sternstein, even if there is no great view. Surely, I can’t miss out on the Sternstein.
Bad Leonfelden#
I start my tour with a visit to the old town centre of Bad Leonfelden. Not a particularly good idea in hindsight. Yesterday afternoon, there was a slight thaw and the snow-free streets and pavements in Bad Leonfelden have really picked up. The grey sky is reflected dizzily on the thin layer of ice. Careful. Slow down. Running is too dangerous.
Gingerbread#
Undeterred by this, many sweet teeth enjoy their morning coffee at Café Kastner. They don’t have to worry about slippery ice here, but only about the calories of the sweet ice cream sundaes and the delicious gingerbread. The gingerbread baker Kastner looks back on a long history and is closely linked to the town.
Gingerbread, mead and candles have been produced in Bad Leonfelden since 1559. The region’s industrious bees supply the important natural raw materials, honey and wax, for production. Sales flourished alongside the important salt trade route that runs through Bad Leonfelden. You can gain an insight into modern biscuit and gingerbread production on a guided tour through the Lebzeltarium.
Marketplace and school#
The large market square in Bad Leonfelden is typical of the region. The town hall and a number of low, two-storey houses form a ring around the elongated, rectangular square. The former market wall is unfortunately only sparsely preserved in a few places.
At the other end of the market square, slightly off to the side, stands the church. Adjacent to it is the old parish school. It is the oldest surviving school building in Upper Austria. From 1577, children and young people were taught to read and write in its rooms, but at that time only for the scions of Leonfelden’s bourgeoisie in preparation for a future priesthood. Girls, on the other hand, were not allowed to seek education. Today, the building houses a museum about the historic school system in Austria.
Sternstein#
Watch out! Almost slipped. The route leaves the historic town on a gentle slope. This is followed by the longer ascent to the Sternstein. For the time being, I walk through the housing estates of Bad Leonfelden, which have spread out on the hillside. The cleared road is icy, but that changes as I leave the settlement and come across the first dirt track. The snow gives me grip. I no longer have to worry about slipping. Lots of footprints lead the way. A popular path, which is so aptly named Lug ins Land. After all, it offers a far-reaching view of the landscape and Bad Leonfelden.
Sternwald#
I now leave the open plain and head into the dense forest. Truly marvellous. The snow is fluffy, soft and dry just 100 metres above Bad Leonfelden. It hasn’t thawed here. Every step is a delicious crunch. The branches of the spruce and fir trees are covered in white sugar.
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/>Fortunately, I don’t find it difficult to find the path. Someone was already there before me. The footprints give it away. It wasn’t the Yeti, they’re not big enough for that, luckily. I follow them, initially on wide forest roads and later on narrow tracks that wind their way through the forest. Every metre in altitude adds a few millimetres to the snow cover. The branches have to bear a considerable snow load. The snow bends them towards the ground. Sometimes I unconsciously brush against them. Then I release them from their burden, and they spring up happily.
I soon reach the Berggasthof Waldschenke. I’m not that far away from civilization after all. The inn is open all year round and serves regional and seasonal specialities.
Sternstein lookout point#
After the inn, I discover the tracks of a rare species that only awakens in winter, the infamous snowcat. Their wide snow tracks make my progress much easier. On the packed snow, I run effortlessly.
There is also a small ski area on the Sternstein. Preparations for the start of the season are in full swing. The snowcats have been torn from their summer slumber and are speeding up and down the piste. The sound of their engines breaks the otherwise prevailing silence. But I soon leave their tracks and head back onto narrow, snow-covered forest paths.
I step out of the shelter of the forest. Only now do I realize how windy it is today. The trees have kept the icy wind away from me. But here on this almost bare plain in front of the summit, its cold envelops my face. It piles up the snow and presses it against everything in its path. If I stayed here any longer, I would soon be transformed into a snowman. The few fir trees are already completely covered in snow. No more green needles peek out. The thick fog also adds to the unreality of the landscape. Everything is white. Sky and earth.
I fought my way through the snow into the next section of forest. The summit is not far away. Just a few more steps uphill. And there. Suddenly. A large tower, like something out of a fairy tale. I’ve reached the summit.
Rapunzel could live up here and let her hair down so that I can climb up. But the tower remains closed in winter. The walk up the icy wooden steps inside the tower is too dangerous. I reassure myself that there will be no panoramic view today anyway in the fog. On good days in summer, however, the view extends as far as the Alps and Bohemia.
The Sternsteinwarte, as it is known, was built to mark the 50th anniversary of the reign of Emperor Franz Josef I in 1898 and opened a year later in 1899 with a magnificent ceremony. The aesthetics of the tower, designed with thick granite blocks, can be categorized as 19th century castle romanticism. It is reminiscent of numerous fairytale towers. Due to its exposed nature, the tower was closed for long periods in its history until a renovation made it safe to enter again. When I arrive, it is battling against the winter adversities.
Pilzstein#
After a short break, we head back down through the snow. What a joy. I bounce and glide through the soft snow. I feel like a snow ball rolling down the slope through the forest. I get bigger and bigger. The powder snow splashes into the air to my left and right. My every step sinks softly into the snow.
I run and run. I almost miss the turn-off to the mushroom stone in the snowy turmoil - a short detour, but definitely worth it. Several mighty stones protrude from the forest floor, including one that looks like a giant porcini mushroom. Its flanks are covered in ice and icicles hang down from the edge of the rock.
Salt road#
I soon emerge from the forest. The wind sweeps across the plain. But now I have to be more careful. I leave the gravel paths and head onto icy tarmac roads. Not a good exchange.
Well, there should be a path here. Puzzled, I switch between the maps on my watch and my mobile phone. Yes, definitely, there should be a path here. The wind has blown the snow over the track, and it now forms a smooth surface with the meadow. I trust my map and trudge through the deep snow.
Now I notice a few faint footprints. So there is a path here. The wind becomes weaker, the footprints deeper. Now the path is really easy to recognize. At the end of it, I meet a couple of hikers. They can look forward to my fresh tracks without having to search for the path.
Finally, the route takes me along the historic salt road, which I already walked two days ago on my tour to the Czech Republic. Unfortunately, the snow is no longer loose, but wet and heavy - much to the chagrin of my shoes. Nevertheless, I set off on another sprint up the hill after the Große Rodl. Done! A great winter tour through the Sternwald.