After the first stage of the World Heritage Trail I continue with a short circular tour over the hill ranges of Dürnstein on the airy Vogelbersteig. Up to the Kanzel, then to the Fesslhütte and back down via the normal route past the ruins. A short 5 km loop with wonderful panoramic views in autumn.
Old Town Dürnstein#
I start the route at the Kremser Tor and take a leisurely stroll through the romantic old town of Dürnstein, which is almost empty this late in the year. One more thing: Dürnstein is one of the smallest towns in Austria with fewer than 300 inhabitants. Dürnstein is said to have been granted town charter as early as 1347, but since then the small town has hardly grown at all. The narrow valley prevented any major expansion, resulting in a small medieval town that nearly remained untouched until today.
Vogelbergsteig#
At the other end of the town, I turn into the valley, cross the Wachau railway, which makes a brief appearance only to disappear into tunnels again, and shortly afterwards the steep start of the Vogelbergsteig begin. No more calm breathing. I climb steeply uphill in numerous serpentines, panting.
It becomes airy as I reach the first rocks that drop steeply down towards the Danube. I almost feel like I’m in the Alps. There are several great viewpoints along the way. The dark red autumn forests on the opposite ridge reveal the stone ruin. Dürnstein Abbey with its blue tower can be made out on the Danube at the foot of the hill.
The climb soon flattens out a little and is secured with a rope. It drops quite steeply to my right. But the path is wide and safe to walk on. Towards the end, however, it becomes steeper again and you cross a few rock slabs. Caution is certainly advised in wet conditions. But you don’t necessarily need to use your hands. Finally, after the strenuous but scenic climb, you reach the ridge. There you can continue left to the Dürnsteiner Kanzel, a beautiful viewing platform, or right to the Fesselhütte.
Ruin Dürnstein#
I decide to continue to the Fesselhütte, which is open almost all year round, and then finish my hike for today by descending to the Dürnstein ruins and the town of Dürnstein. It had already been a long day. But the descent so late in autumn is treacherous on this path. Many leaves cover the landing area of the steps and there are a lot of steps, so I have to be very careful not to twist my ankle.
I make a short detour to the ruins to take some photos. Almost deserted again. The silence is marvellous. And after even more steps, I’m soon back down at the town gate. I then take the Nextbike back to the railway station in Krems.
Alternative route for World Heritage Trail#
The Vogelbergsteig is also a wonderful alternative ascent for the second stage of the World Heritage Trail if you have already visited the ruin Dürnstein at the end of the first stage. Definetly, don’t skip the ruin. It’s worth it.
Personally, I like the Vogelbergsteig much better than the ruin path, which is constantly in the forest and therefore offers hardly any views. In contrast, the Vogelbergsteig offers a marvellous panorama of the ruin and the town of Dürnstein with few trees.